When it comes to the success of your home mend and improvement project there is nothing more important than to unblemished the project with no injuries! I remind my self of the safety rules each time I use a tool, especially a power tool. That is why after 25 +/- years I have yet to hold a major injury, knock on wood. (I cut my thumb pretty bad with a utility knife one time in my youth not having employed allowable knife safety). However my appendages are all in place, I have no broken bones, no back problems or knee problems. I want the same for you.
Secondly, it is also important to use the Saw properly so that you end up with a pro seeing job!
What is a circular Saw (also known as a skill Saw)? In our example it's the kind of saw that is hand held on top of the material that is to be cut and has a circular blade. Hence the name. The area of the saw that rests on the material is called the shoe plate. The blade comes in sizes most ordinarily from 4" to 8". For general cutting purposes on home projects a size 7 ¼" is most common. If man asks you what size saw you have, the allowable write back is to tell them the blade size. Blades also come with varying numbers of teeth. The whole of teeth on the blade should be right for the material and the direction of the cut. When cutting along the distance of the wood (with the grain, called a rip cut) use fewer teeth. When cutting across the wood (across the grain, called a cross cut) use more teeth. If the wood is harder, use more teeth. Carbide tipped blades are better. When properly installed for wood cutting, the teeth on the front of the blade should be pointing up. For cutting other things, such as vinyl siding, the blade can be put on "backwards". All the time disconnect the power cord when changing blades. Don't use an overly dull blade. Blades can be changed easily: First, it helps if you set the blade depth to shallow. Second, find the blade lock on the surface of the saw. It's kind of like a metal button that you push. Then find a wrench that fit's the retaining bolt in the center of the blade. When you buy circular saw blades make sure the arbor (the hole in the center of the blade) is the right fit. Next, push down on the blade lock and turn the blade until you feel it lock. Now you can unscrew the retaining bolt counter clockwise. Once the bolt is removed, lift the blade guard to take off the old blade. Setup the new blade using reverse procedure.
Most circular saws will typically have 2 adjustments. One is the bevel adjustment. This is the one that tips the saw blade from side to side. This in turn causes the saw to cut at an angle. Use at 0 degrees for right cuts. The other is the blade depth. This is the one that allows the blade and the motor to slide up and down in relation to the shoe plate. This causes the blade to cut deeper or shallower into the material. Regularly these adjustments are held in place with nut and bolt type fasteners. The nuts will come in varying shapes and sizes. Be sure they are tight before using the saw. Also don't forget to unplug the saw before development adjustments.
The on-off switch is a trigger/toggle type which may or may not have a safety latch. Issue the safety (if it has one) and "pull the trigger" to actuate the blade. Don't forget to Issue the trigger when you are closed development the cut!
As far as development a cut goes there are a few things I like to remember before I do: Cut outdoors if you can. If you cut with the wind at your back, it will blow the sawdust away from you. Have good lighting. Wear eye and ear protection. Wear shoes and socks. Avoid loose clothing and any other object that can come close to the blade. Avoid distractions that can suddenly cause you to loose focus. Adjust the saw for angle and depth. Make sure the material is garage and won't move colse to as this can effect in injury and/or a poor cut. In the absence of a helper, I like to use clamps when working from a saw horse. If you are working from a pile you can sometimes put foot or knee pressure on the material to keep it steady. Use common sense though and don't try anything that doesn't seem right. Remember: sawdust on plywood can make it glossy when walked on. Pay attentiveness to what is under the material you are cutting. anything comes in sense with the material along the line of your cut will be affected by the blade in the same way the material is. This includes fingers! Put something under the material to avoid unwanted sense with the blade. Shade your eyes from attractive sunlight. Make sure the mark you are cutting along is clearly visible. Cut with the back of the material (the side that won't show when installed) on top. This will insure that the side that shows will have a nice clean cut with no "feathers". Make sure the power chord of the saw is trailing behind the saw and can't be cut accidentally. Adjusting the blade depth to approx. 1/8" below the material helps with avoiding unwanted outcomes.
(Warning! Kickback is when the back of the blade binds and causes the saw to suddenly jump violently away from the material, and possibly out of your hand, causing potential injury, damage to the material and damage to the saw. One way to avoid this is to go slow with your cut. If you feel resistance and observation the motor wind down, kickback could be imminent! Stop send motion with your saw. Issue the trigger and hold the saw steadily in place until the blade comes to a unblemished stop. This type of kickback Regularly occurs when development a rip cut and is caused by the wood having natural tension in it, pinching the back of the blade. To remedy this problem, place a wedge in the curf (the measure of the material that is taken out by the blade) in between the two sides of the cut. Other ways kickback can occur are if you or the material or the saw gets bumped or are otherwise disturbed. This can cause the back of the blade to be moved to the side causing it to bind. an additional one way is if you let go of the saw while it is still in the material and the blade is still moving. Still an additional one way is if you try to cut a radius. Circular blades are intended for right cuts, right blades, like jigsaw blades, are intended for circular cuts. If you use it for anything else you are taking your chances. Don't try to cut the wood in between the sawhorses, All the time on the outside. More specifically, never have the material supported on both sides. hold the long side of the board and have the short side be free of contact. Kickback can also occur if the blade has sense when you "pull the trigger". But mostly, avoid kickback by paying attentiveness to how much pressure is on the back of the blade.)
Now you are ready to make a cut. I like to start with just the front end of the shoe plate resting comfortably on the material. Make sure the blade is not touching the material when you "pull the trigger". Set the blade in line with the cut line so that it is on the side of the line that is the "waist" side. Make a few small "test" cuts attractive the blade closer to the line each time. When you desist the cut, the mark should still be visible but get as close to it as you can. Remember: you can All the time take more off the board if it is too long but you can't put more on if it is too short! Make sure the power chord can move freely. Try to relax as you make the cut. Be gentile with your motions. If you fight the saw, the saw will probably win. Cutting moderately will make a best cut. Focus your vision on the blade, not on the wood, from the cope side of the saw. Make sure the shoe plate is resting wholly and flatly on the material. Less side to side motion makes a straighter cut. The blade can be maneuvered to stay on the line but watch for kickback. I like to push the saw with my body rather that with my arm. Cut past the end of the cut. To avoid the "chink" that can occur when the waist side falls off, place an object that is about 1/4" to 1/2" below the waist piece so that it doesn't fall too far.
This is in no way intended to be an exhaustive essay. It is just a few notions I had on a Sunday afternoon while mental about my circular saw. Use your own good judgment. Leave a commentary and Happy Sawing!
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